Roller Chains in Mining Conveyor Systems: Tips & FAQs
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Time to read 9 min
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Time to read 9 min
If you work in mining or support someone who does, you know just how demanding the job can be.
As mining activity grows across the U.S, with the mining equipment market hitting $17.15 billion in 2023, the demand for reliable equipment also grows.
More demand means tougher competition, so it’s worth making sure your equipment can keep up. Heavy-duty roller chains do just that, helping your conveyors run smoothly and your costs stay under control.
Stick with this guide, and you’ll come away knowing:
Mining puts chains to the test, which is why different conveyor setups call for different types of roller chains.
When it comes to mining conveyors, standard roller chains fall short. That’s where heavy-duty roller chains come in.
These chains are built with thicker side plates, oversized pins, and reinforced rollers to handle demanding loads and tough operating conditions.
You’ll find these in high-torque, high-impact areas like:
Why they’re a good fit:
When your conveyors operate in wet, chemical-heavy, or underground environments, these chains are the ideal go-to.
Corrosion-resistant roller chains are typically made from stainless steel or coated with nickel or zinc to help them stand up to harsh temperatures and conditions.
Where they shine:
What makes them essential:
Sometimes, regular maintenance just isn’t realistic. Maybe it’s too risky, or the conveyor’s too remote.
That’s when self-lubricating chains really earn their keep. These come with built-in lubrication, either through oil-filled bushings or sealed designs.
They’re ideal for:
Why they matter:
Mining is tough. And sometimes, you need chains that go beyond “heavy-duty.”
Specialty roller chains, such as Tram Chains, are engineered with custom features like thicker plates, hardened pins, sealed joints, stronger rivets, and even extended pitch designs.
Where you’ll see them:
Why they’re worth it:

Roller chains have really earned their spot as a favorite in the mining industry, and it’s easy to see why! They’re incredibly tough, super reliable, and designed to handle the daily grind of hard work these systems face.
It’s like they’ve got a reputation for being able to take a beating and still come out strong, making them a trusted choice in the field.
Here’s why they work so well underground and on the surface:
Let’s find the right chain for your setup. We’re Here to Help
If you want to minimize breakdowns and maximize uptime, start with proper maintenance and lubrication.
Start by checking the machine for any unwanted contact between the chain, sprockets, casing, or nearby components.
Watch for telltale signs like shiny steel spots, bent pins, battered link plates, or uneven roller wear. This usually indicates that the chain has been rubbing against an area where it shouldn't be.
If the rubbing continues, those repeated impacts can create unusual wear patterns, build up stress, and eventually lead to cracks or even chain failure.
Take a close look at the chain itself. Are there cracked, corroded, or missing parts?
Before you jump to replacing or repairing something, take a moment to figure out what really caused the issue in the first place. If you don't, the same problem might just sneak back up on you later.
Don’t forget about those sprockets, they deserve some love, too! Take a closer look for any broken, chipped, or badly worn teeth. It’s the little details that can make a big difference.
If one sprocket is damaged, chances are others in the system might be showing signs too. Ignoring it only shortens the life of your chain.
If you’ve noticed some uneven wear on the inside of your plates or one-sided pin wear, it’s a good indicator that your alignment might be off.
Another clear sign to look out for is if the sprocket teeth are wearing more heavily on one side; that’s a big red flag!
When you spot any of these issues, it’s a good time to consider realigning your sprockets.
However, if the wear looks pretty severe, it might be worth considering replacing both the sprockets and the chain altogether. It could save you headaches down the road.
Chains don’t just wear down from use; they collect dirt too. Check between the plates and rollers for packed-in debris.
It’s really important to keep your equipment clean. Dirt buildup can block the lubricant, causing joints to stiffen and rollers to develop flat spots.
Plus, if sprockets get clogged, it can lead to elongation of the chain or even damage the rollers when they engage.
When you're checking your equipment, don't forget to look for any cracks, rust, or discoloration on the plates, and keep an eye on those round parts for signs of oxidation.
These can be pretty clear indicators that your chain has been exposed to some corrosive elements or that the lubricant isn't quite up to snuff.
Damage isn’t the only thing you should be checking for on your sprockets!
Excess wear is always something to keep an eye on, as worn teeth are often the first sign of trouble. You'll want to see a smooth curve, not a hooked shape that worn teeth tend to make.
Idler sprockets wear at the root instead of the tooth face, and over time, a groove can form, causing the rollers to bind or catch.
Wear on teeth isn't always obvious. Badly worn teeth are easy to spot, but even light wear can cause significant issues.
Bonus tip: Flipping a sprocket on the shaft can sometimes extend its life, but only if there’s room for the hub on the opposite side.
Chains are a little easier to measure than sprockets. To check, rotate two sprockets in opposite directions to pull the chain tight. Then measure pin-to-pin over at least 12 inches (example: 12 pitches for #80 chain).
Make it a habit to check your chain tension and sag regularly. It’s important to adjust both new and old chains in the same way.
If you find that your tensioners or idler sprockets doesn't have enough adjustment left, you may need to shorten the chain.
For crank link steel chains, you can remove one link. For straight side plate chains, you need to remove two links. If removing two links is excessive, you can add an offset (crank/half) link to achieve the perfect fit.
Last but not least, don’t overlook the guards. Make sure casings are solid and that clearances haven’t closed.
Check meshes and openings to ensure they’re not damaged or stretched.
Also, confirm that all bolts are tight and every safety device is in place and working. If anything looks questionable, repair or replace it right away.
Tip: In mining environments where vibration is constant, bolts can loosen and are often tough to reach. Adding thread locker helps lock them in place and reduces the need for frequent retightening.

Conveyors and elevators need the same basics as chain drives: good lubrication, healthy sprockets, and proper tension.
But since they’re bigger and more complex, some areas need a bit of extra care.
Check that chains and sprockets aren’t rubbing against the frame or outside objects. When you have attachments, flights, buckets, and slats all in play, interference could likely happen. Keeping an eye on all these elements can help minimize any potential issues.
Buckets can also deform under load and scrape supports. If you spot contact, fix it right away.
Conveyors are long, which makes them prone to drifting out of line.
If you notice any wear marks on the link plates or if the sprocket teeth look uneven, it’s usually a sign that alignment might be off. It’s a good idea to tweak the sprockets before the issue gets worse.
These systems usually run open, so dirt and rust are a constant battle. Look for buildup in the tracks, guides, and especially between slats.
Packed-in material can bend or break them, letting more debris spill inside. Clean what you can on-site, and if access is limited, pull the chain and clean it properly.
Also, keep an eye out for rust, pitting (localized corrosion) or discoloration on the chain. If the corrosion is severe, it’s safer to replace the chain rather than risk a failure.
Check elongation over at least eight pitches. Most chains can run until 3–5% stretch, but if your setup relies on precise placement, replace them sooner (at 1–2%).
Since conveyors often run paired chains, always compare both. Always compare both chains in a paired conveyor system. If one chain wears out faster than the other, replace both as a set to prevent misalignment or broken attachments.
On long, slow conveyors, you might see jerky motion from slip-stick. If that happens, adjust the speed or tweak the lubrication until things smooth out.
If your mining conveyors run under heavy loads, constant abrasion, or harsh underground conditions, a standard roller chain just won’t cut it.
At USA Roller Chain & Sprockets, we make it easy to choose the right chain for mining applications.
Our team will help you find the best fit, whether you need extra strength, corrosion resistance, or a custom-engineered solution.
Choosing the right chain can be tricky. We’ll Point You in the Right Direction
It really depends on the conditions, but as a rule of thumb, mining chains should be inspected regularly, ideally during planned maintenance or downtime.
Keep an eye out for common issues like wear, elongation, rust, or misalignment.
A good indicator is elongation. Once the chain stretches more than about 3% of its original pitch, it’s time for a replacement.
If the chain won’t run smoothly on the sprockets even after you’ve adjusted tension and applied proper lubrication, it’s a sign that it’s worn out.
Other red flags include cracks, stiff links, or heavy corrosion.
Yes, they do. Mining environments are tough, so the lubricant has to match.
Heavy-duty, water-resistant, or dry-film lubricants are often used to keep dirt and debris from sticking.
In some cases, self-lubricating chains are a smart option, especially when regular maintenance isn’t practical.
Wondering which roller chain is right for your mining setup? Contact Us!