Bushing vs. Bearing: Key Differences, Types & FAQs
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Time to read 13 min
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Time to read 13 min
If you’ve ever worked with machinery, you’ve likely come across bushings and bearings. At first glance, they might look pretty similar, but there’s actually a big difference between the two.
They’re designed differently and perform different roles. Using the wrong one can lead to extra noise, increased wear on your equipment, and could even result in some pretty costly downtime. So, it’s definitely worth knowing what sets them apart!
This full guide walks you through everything you need to know, including:
Not sure whether you need a bushing or a bearing? This comparison lays out what sets them apart.
| Features | Bushing | Bearing |
|---|---|---|
| Function | Supports movement with sliding contact | Eases movement with rolling contact (balls or rollers) |
| Material Options | Bronze, brass, PTFE, and nylon | Steel, stainless steel, and ceramic |
| Common Applications | Hinges, dampers, agricultural or slow-moving machinery | Motors, gearboxes, conveyors, and high-speed shafts |
| Design | Typically, a single-piece sleeve (think plain or flanged) | Multi-component assembly with races, rolling elements, and a cage |
| Friction Level | Higher friction | Lower friction due to rolling contact |
| Load Capacity | Handles heavy static and shock loads | Better for dynamic, rotating loads |
| Speed Capability | Best for low-speed applications | Ideal for high-speed applications |
| Alignment Sensitivity | Tolerant of slight misalignment | Sensitive to misalignment, which can lead to premature bearing failures |
| Cost | Lower upfront cost | The added complexity in the design drives up the cost |
| Installation | More straightforward (press-fit or slip-fit) | Requires exact alignment and the proper way to press it in place |
| Maintenance | Often self-lubricating with minimal upkeep | Requires regular lubrication unless sealed |
A bushing is typically a simple cylindrical sleeve that fits over a shaft to help reduce friction. It's often referred to as a sleeve bearing, and it serves some pretty important roles. It supports the shaft, absorbs shock, and helps everything run smoothly.
Even though it may look basic, don’t underestimate its impact! Bushings are great for cutting down on energy use and keeping machinery quieter, making a big difference in how things operate.
Looking for the right bushing? We Make It Simple
Bushings come in several forms:
The material you choose makes a big difference in performance, wear resistance, and durability.
Bronze bushings are a favorite for many because they really deliver when it comes to performance. They can handle a good amount of load and resist wear quite well, which is always a plus. Plus, they can take some heat, tolerating temperatures up to about 450 °F.
Now, if you're looking at other metals, each one has its own advantages too. Steel and stainless steel are known for their strength, brass brings some nice corrosion resistance to the table, aluminum is great for being lightweight, and copper has its own set of benefits. It really depends on what you need for your specific application.
And according to a 2025 study, bushings with more depth and thicker rims hold up even better under wear, especially in tough, high-use environments.
Plastic bushings are lightweight, naturally resist rust, and modern polymers have greatly improved durability.
Pros:
Cons:
Get a snug, reliable fit with this step-by-step bushing installation guide.
Before you dive into things, take a moment to check that both the housing bore and the shaft are nice and clean, with no damage in sight. Having a smooth, well-sized surface is key because it makes sure the bushing fits snugly and works like it’s supposed to.
Bushings are typically installed with either a press fit or a slip fit:
Not all bushings need lubrication, but a lot of the metal or composite ones, like bronze and steel, work better with a light coating of grease or oil when you’re installing them.
Just a heads up, if you’re dealing with oil-impregnated bronze bushings, they come pre-lubed, so adding more lubricant can really mess things up instead of helping.
On the flip side, there are dry-running plastic bushings, like those made from PTFE, which are made to function without any lubrication at all.
It’s always a good idea to check the manufacturer's guidelines to figure out what kind of lubricant you should use, whether that’s high-temp grease, food-grade oil, or dry film for dustier environments. That way, you’ll ensure everything runs smoothly.
Make sure the bushing sits square with the housing.
In this context, "square" means the bushing is aligned at a perfect 90-degree angle to the housing surface: not tilted, crooked, or off-center.
When a bushing isn’t square during installation, it can sit unevenly in the bore.
That misalignment puts extra stress on the shaft and the bushing, which often leads to problems like:
Use a bushing driver, arbor press, or similar tool to insert the bushing with steady pressure.
Never hammer directly on the bushing, because it can crack or deform the material, especially when working with plastic or softer metals.
Once you’ve got the bushing in place, take a quick moment to check if it’s flush with the housing. That just means the outer edge of the bushing should sit perfectly level with the surrounding surface.
Unless your setup requires it to be a bit deeper or stick out a little, you want that smooth transition.
Pop the shaft into place and give it a quick spin. It should turn easily, without grinding, sticking, or wobbling. Ultimately, you're aiming for a smooth rotation with just the right amount of resistance.
If your setup deals with heavy loads or a lot of vibration, the bushing might work its way loose over time, especially if it’s not press-fit.
To keep it in place, you can use a set screw, snap ring, or even a dab of retaining compound.

Don’t be a rookie! These common bushing mistakes might seem minor, but they can lead to misalignment, early wear, or even a full-on part failure.
Over-torquing the hardware: Over-tightening bolts can do more harm than good, as it might crack the bushing or mess up the part it's connected to. A torque wrench can help you apply the exact force needed to secure the fit without causing damage.
Using anti-seize or regular lubricant on mounting surfaces: While it may seem beneficial, adding lubricants or anti-seize can cause the bushing to slip deeper than intended, increasing stress on both components and misaligning them.
Swapping a split washer for a flat one: Split washers are built to grip the fastener and bushing, preventing bolts from loosening. Flat washers, on the other hand, don’t offer that grip, so over time, your bolts might start to loosen up.
Not tightening bolts progressively: Torquing one bolt all the way down before touching the others can throw off alignment. Always tighten bolts gradually and in sequence to seat the bushing evenly and avoid distortion.
Start by loosening and removing all the screws or bolts holding the assembly together.
Once that’s done, take those same screws and thread them into the removal holes on the bushing. Tighten them evenly, a little at a time, and the bushing should start to pop free.
If a QD or split-taper bushing doesn’t want to budge, gently wedge a tool between the flange and the hub to help nudge it loose.
Just go slow and steady to avoid damaging the components.
A bearing is a multi-part assembly with races, rolling elements, and a cage.
Instead of sliding like bushings, bearings roll, which reduces friction and makes them better for higher speeds and continuous rotation.
Different bearings serve different purposes. Here’s a quick rundown of the most common types you’re likely to run into:
Ball bearings are your classic, all-purpose bearings, and for good reason.
They utilize small balls to reduce friction effectively in systems that require handling both radial and light axial loads.
If you’re looking for something reliable and versatile, ball bearings are usually the first pick.
You’ll find them in:
Unlike ball bearings, roller bearings spread the load out over a wider surface, which helps handle heavier forces more effectively.
Commonly used in:
These are a type of roller bearing, but with thinner rollers. They’re great when you need high load capacity in tight spaces.
Often found in:
With cone-shaped rollers and races, these bearings handle both radial and axial loads.
This makes them ideal for setups with combined forces, such as wheel hubs, gearboxes, heavy-duty machinery, and construction equipment, where both vertical and side loads are in play.
You’ll see them in:
These are made specifically for axial loads, meaning forces that are parallel to the shaft. They come in ball, roller, and tapered versions.
Typically used in:
Mounted bearings come pre-assembled in a housing, making them super easy to install and align.
Perfect for:
Installing bearings is not overly complicated, but doing it correctly can significantly impact both performance and lifespan.
We’ll walk you through the process so your bearings perform like they should:
Start by cleaning the housing bore and shaft thoroughly. Use lint-free cloths and solvent if necessary. Even small particles, rust, or burrs can disrupt alignment or damage the bearing during installation.
A good tip is to use a micrometer or bore gauge to check tolerances before you begin, especially if you're dealing with high-speed or high-load applications. Taking this extra step can help ensure everything goes smoothly.
Double-check that you’re using the right fit for your application:
Getting this right is super important! Bearing tolerances are designed to ensure everything aligns perfectly and distributes loads just right.
If the fit is too tight, you might end up damaging the bearing assembly when you’re trying to install it, or you could create some serious heat while it’s running.
On the flip side, if it’s too loose, you run the risk of the bearings slipping or misaligning, which can lead to uneven wear.
Need to mount a bearing on a tight shaft? Heat it evenly to around 212°F using an induction heater, oven, or hot plate (not a torch!).
This expands the inner ring slightly, letting it slide on easily without damaging the raceway.
Avoid overheating, as exceeding 250°F can ruin the bearing’s metallurgy or lubricant.
Before you ease the bearing in, double-check that it’s lined up just right with the housing or shaft.
Even a tiny tilt can throw things off, causing uneven seating, extra stress, vibration, and faster wear than you’d expect.
Use a bearing press or arbor press to seat the bearing. Always press:
Never press across the rolling elements. Doing so transfers force through the balls or rollers, which can cause brinelling (permanent indentations).
Depending on the design, you might need to install a retaining ring, locknut, or set screw.
Don’t skip this step, especially in high-vibration environments, because even slight movement can cause the bearing to shift out of position, leading to:
If your bearing isn’t sealed or pre-lubricated, apply the correct lubricant for your operating environment:
Balance is key here, as too much grease can cause overheating, while too little leads to metal-on-metal contact.
Once installed, rotate the shaft by hand.
It should feel smooth with no binding, grinding, or wobbling. Any resistance could be a sign of misalignment or a damaged race.
It's a good idea to jot down some quick notes during the installation. Just keep track of things like the fit type, the mounting temperature, the lubricant you used, and the torque values.
It may seem like a small detail but having that info handy can really save you a lot of time down the road when you're trying to troubleshoot or plan maintenance.
Plus, it can help you notice any patterns if you're dealing with the same issue repeatedly.

When it comes to removing a bearing, it’s not just a matter of yanking it out. The process requires careful attention to detail.
It's all about uninstalling it safely and cleanly, ensuring that you don't damage any of the surrounding components. A thoughtful approach can save you time and effort down the line.
Start by identifying how the bearing is installed. Is it on a shaft, inside a housing, or both?
Look for retaining hardware like set screws, locknuts, and snap rings. These need to come off first.
Forget the hammer and screwdriver: Those can do more harm than good. Instead, use a bearing puller, separator, or press to apply even pressure.
If the bearing’s stuck, a bearing heater or induction heater can help ease it off without causing damage.
Remove snap rings, set screws, and locking collars. Forgetting one can make the removal way harder and risk damaging the shaft or housing.
Use a puller or press but go slow and steady. And here's the important part: Apply pressure to the right ring or you could end up damaging the bearing seat.
Avoid uneven pressure, which can warp the bearing seat or damage the component.
Once you’ve got the bearing out, give everything a good cleaning. Look closely for any signs of wear, scoring, or deformation on the shaft or housing.
Spotting damage now can save you from bigger headaches down the line.
Bushings and bearings are critical parts, and we stock a full range to keep your equipment moving.
At USA Roller Chain and Sprockets, choose from a variety of bushings and bearings to match your setup, handle your workload, and keep things running smoothly.
Here’s what we’ve got lined up for you:
You don’t have to be a pro, that's what we're here for! Just tell us a bit about your project, and we’ll help you figure out the best way forward.
Not sure which option is right? Let Us Help You Figure It Out
Bushings reduce friction using sliding contact. Bearings reduce friction using rolling elements. Bushings are better for slow, heavy-load systems. Bearings are better for high-speed, rotating setups.
If your equipment runs slowly and carries heavy or shock loads, a bushing is usually the right choice.
Generally, yes. Bearings require more precision during installation. Bushings are simpler but still require care.
Still unsure what to pick? We’re here to help you make the right choice